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THE PROCESS
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SILK OPENING
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patolas are strictly made form pure silk only
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originally the pure silk was procured form
mursidabad near Calcutta in west Bengal
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Then it was imported form china, japan and
Korea. Event today the patoal weavers insist for the
Natural silk procured form the saliva of the silk
Worms.
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The thread to weave patolas are finer than ones
Hair.
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Normally the yarn for patolas is of 13\15,20\22,
18\20,and 28\32 deneir.
China silk of 20\22 denier is opened form the rove
Form and wound on “padata (big spinedle)”with
The help or ones foot and then it is wound on to “padati(small spindle)”with ones hand while
Moving both of them simultaneously
This is done so that playing becomes easier.
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PLAING AND DEGUMMING
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8 padatis are taken and formed into one yarn and wound onto a padata, to make 8 ply.
This is called Dhoro(plied) and the padata with dhoro is called aanta.
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This is then transformed onto a padati to give it slight twist to hold it with the help of
Ones hand and feet.
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This is done so that any faults like slub in the yarn, breakage, thin yarn thick yarn can
Be detected by hand.
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To remove the natural gum form the silk the plied yarn is kept in water for 5-6 hours
And then it is boiled in water after adding oil and soda in proportionate amount.
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It has to be continuously stirred for 20-25 minutes and clean water has to be added at
Intervals. It is hard and yellow so it will become soft and white it is washed 5-6 time in a
Container of cool water and dried in sun.
OPENING AND TWISTING
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After the silk dries n the sun it is opened on the padata,then it is again soaked in water.
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The slight moist silk is then with the help of a hath retiyam (charkha), wound onto a
Rectangular bobbin while giving it twist so that it becomes strong and find.
WARPING
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This yarn is then used for making the “tano” form the pegs trayna on the wall according
To the length of the assumption.
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The number of warp threads are not counted at that time, but just done randomly
According to the weavers assumption.
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This is then removed form the pegs and twisted knot like and kept aside.
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